Don't relax in autumn fruit tree management

Young apple trees have strong growth potential, poor cold resistance, and poor management. They are prone to stripping after winter. In mild cases, poor growth, disordered tree shape, delayed fruiting. The whole plant died in severe cases, resulting in a lack of plants and affecting the construction of the garden. For example, strengthening the field management in autumn to promote the healthy growth of the tree body and the mature branches can effectively enhance its overwintering ability and prevent the occurrence of draining. Now introduce the main management measures in autumn.

Topping: Before October, all branches that have not stopped growing will be topped to control the growth of the branches, promote nutrient accumulation, and make the branches grow full, robust and mature, which is conducive to safe overwintering.

Pulling branches: Before October, in order to ease the tree's vigor and balance the branches and buds, on the basis of pulling branches in spring and summer, continue to pull branches with small angles and open angles. Generally, the angle of the main branch is pulled to 70-80 degrees, and the feeding branch is pulled to 90-120 degrees. Note when pulling: first support the base of the branch from the bottom with one hand, hold the base gently with the other hand, and slowly pull down to prevent the base from splitting. Achieve the "four nos" and "one line": do not circle, do not bend the bow, do not burrow into the ground, do not face the sky, and the branches will remain a line after pulling.

Take branches: Before October, when pulling branches and topping, take branches on the back of the main branch and auxiliary branches, and the long branches on the center stem to change their growth potential and direction. Method: Slightly exert pressure from the inside to the outside of the base of the branches with your hands, pinch the branches, and damage the tissues of the branches. The vascular bundles in the branches will make a "pop" sound, but the branches should not be broken, and the leaves should not be damaged. The branches after holding are horizontal or drooping.

In order to promote full growth, robustness, early maturity of the branches, and enhance the tree body and overwintering, after August, every 10-15 days, spray 0.3-0.5% potassium dihydrogen phosphate and 1000-2000mg/L paclobutrazol, two It can be sprayed at the same time, three times in a row.

Control big green leafhoppers. When the big green leafhopper lays eggs on the fruit tree in late autumn, it creates a half-moon wound on the trunk. In winter and the following spring, water escapes from the wound, which can easily cause the branches to lose water and drain. From September 20th to October 20th, spray dichlorvos, dichlorvos 2000-3000 times solution, or Sumitoxin 2000-3000 times solution, or chrysanthemum pesticides every 10 days. Spray three times in a row to prevent and control the green leafhopper. You can also apply white on the trunk to prevent the big green leafhopper from laying eggs on the tree.

Apply base fertilizer in time. After applying basal fertilizer in September, the wound of the damaged root system can heal quickly, and a part of the nutrients can be absorbed and utilized by the root system to increase the nutrient storage of the tree.

Stop water in time. Do not irrigate autumn water before irrigating in winter to promote maturity of branches.

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