Poinsettia is an evergreen or semi-evergreen shrub of the genus Euphorbia, also known as the ivory red, the oldest to the beloved, the eucalyptus. It coincides with Christmas during flowering, so it is also called "Christmas Red". Poinsettia blooms in winter. The flowering period is from December to March of the following year. It is Christmas, New Year's Day, and Artificial Spring Festival. It is one of the important winter festivals in China and the world. Poinsettia potted plants are brightly coloured, have a long viewing period, have a large market demand, are perennial, have a short production cycle, and offer considerable commercial cultivation benefits.
First, ecological habits:
Poinsettia native to southern Mexico and Central America and other tropical areas, like warm and humid, low cold resistance, intolerance to frost, winter temperatures above 15 °C, or easy to fall leaves. Hi sunny environment, not shaded. Short-day plants can only bloom if they are under 10 hours of sunshine. It is best to cultivate sandy loam that is slightly acidic (pH 6), moist, and well drained.
Second, cultivated varieties:
It mainly includes the following four types:
1. Euphorbia pulcherrima: The upper leaves are red during flowering, and the inflorescence is partially flanked by pods, which is the main cultivar. Recently, there has emerged a new type of double-leaved loft. The central part of the small leaf is well-developed and stands tall. Small flowers can also bloom. The petals are larger than the general variety. The colors are red, yellow and white.
2. A white product: The upper leaves turn milky white when flowering.
3. A product powder: When the flowering leaves turn pale pink.
4. A product of yellow: The leaves on the upper middle of the flower are light yellow.
Third, breeding methods:
Mainly cuttings can also be inserted into the root culture.
1. Cutting time: use of greenhouses and plastic greenhouses, can be carried out in late March. The open field is best cut from late April to early June.
2. Cutting matrix: The main use of fine sand, perlite, peat, can also be adapted to local conditions, the use of decomposed sawdust, fine cinder ash and fine garden soil. Can be sprayed with 0.1% potassium permanganate solution.
3. Cutting treatment: From the mother plant, cut a short, thick annual branch or new shoot, cut into 5-10cm long cuttings, cut the blade half, and wash the incision wound fluid in clean water. Then the stem base was placed in naphthalene acetic acid 100010-6 soaked 3-5s, can be cut.
4 cutting: first with a small stick on the substrate to make a good hole, the depth of 1/2 spike, spacing 4cm, spacing 5-6cm, then insert the panicle into the hole, gently press around the base, press the substrate And drenched.
5. Post-insertion management: The temperature should not be maintained at about 20°C, shading with shading nets, and spraying water frequently to keep the air and plugs moist, but note that seedlings should not be too wet. General 20-30 days after the rooting. When the new shoot height is 10-12cm, the pot can be put on.
In order to increase the amount of culture, root culture can also be carried out. The method is: in the spring of March-April, when the roots are changed, the old roots with a root diameter of 0.5 cm or more are collected and cut into 7-10 cm long. Root segment. When the plug is inserted, it will be inclined at an angle of about 80 degrees to the north, and the root will leave 1cm of soil surface, and it will become seedling in about 1 month.
Fourth, cultivation and management:
1. Upper Basin: Potted soil formulation uses 4-5 compost soil, rot leaf soil, cut off charcoal or rotten wood, 3-4 parts of garden soil and 1-2 parts of sand, carbon residue or vermiculite. As commercial cultivation, white plastic pots of type AB260 are mostly used, and 1 layer of coarse carbon residue is poured on the bottom of the pot, and then 1 layer of culture soil is filled in. Then, the seedlings are placed in appropriate positions in the center of the pot, filled with soil, and compacted by hand. After the pots were irrigated, they were placed under shade nets for 1 week. Then grow in full light.
2. Fertilizer and water management: Watering should pay attention to proper humidity and dryness, prevent overdrying, and introduce yellow leaves off the feet. In the midsummer, water can be poured 2 times a day, morning and evening, and the amount of water in other seasons can be reduced accordingly. In the rainy season, the water in the basin is eliminated in time to prevent rot. Usually do not have to be too frequent fertilization, usually in the growing season to apply fertilizer 2-3 times a month, in order to prevent leggy, nitrogen fertilizer can not be applied too much. After the autumn, the number of fertilization is increased at high levels and the amount of phosphate fertilizer is increased to promote flower bud formation.
3. Dwarf plastic surgery: Poinsettia stems grow upright, and there are no branches with openness. The plants are taller and reach 1-2m. If they are allowed to grow naturally, the ornamental value is lower. Therefore, in commercial cultivation, it must be subjected to dwarf plastic surgery to achieve a full and dwarf appearance. The specific methods include topping, pulling branches and pinching the stems, etc.
(1) Topping: During the growth period, seedling branches and growth are picked up 1-2 times to promote lateral branches. When the plant height is 30cm, the top side branch retains the lower 1-2 buds and cuts the upper part. Usually the whole plant retains 6-10 buds, all other sprouts are erased.
(2) Pulling branches and sticks: In August-September, each shoot of new shoots of 10-20cm can be bent for 1 time until the color of the bracts. When the branches are pulled, they are tied with a string and the branches are pulled to the level where they are flush with or slightly lower than their habitat. The bottom 3-4 lateral branches should be basically pulled to the same level, and the other lateral branches should be uniformly pulled in all directions. The thin and weak branches are distributed in the center, and the strong branches are in the surrounding, and the branches are in the same direction. In order to prevent the branches from breaking off, it is usually carried out before the bends are controlled or when the shoots have less moisture during the afternoon.
(3) pinching stems tied: Another method of panning. When the poinsettia branches grow to 30-40 cm, before they are not lignified, the branches are successively clockwise squashed outwards from the base until they droop naturally. The treated plants should have a spiral shape. Twist when you decide on flowering or when you are budding.
V. Greenhouse Maintenance in Late Stage: Before the onset of the frosty cold wave in late October, put the plants in a plastic greenhouse or in an objectively existing environment for conservation in order to prevent freezing damage. Putting in too early will cause the plants to grow in size. Placement should be kept at a certain basin spacing for good ventilation. To prevent the plants from being too tight, with poor ventilation and excessive humidity, causing fungal culture, which can cause damage to gray mold and brown spot, causing rot or rot of fallen leaves. If the temperature is too low, it will cause fallen leaves and management should be strengthened.
VI. Flowering control:
1. Warming and flowering: Poinsettia will form flower buds in the open field in mid-October. After moving into the greenhouse in late October, the temperature will be maintained at 20-25°C, and the night temperature will be 15°C.
2. Short days of flowering: In the temperature of 20-25 °C, after shading treatment to give 9h of light each day, single-flowered varieties can be 45-55 days of flowering, double-flowered varieties can be 55-65 days of flowering. Such as from the beginning of August shading treatment, and cooling at night ventilation, top dressing once a week, in September the top leaves began to change color, "National Day" to be listed.
3. Long days deferred flowers: In order to achieve the purpose of suppressing flowering and postponing the flowering period, artificial lighting can be used to extend the sunshine to 16 hours in the evening, or dark light interruptions at night for 2-4 hours. The 4010-6 gibberellin treatment can also be used to postpone the flowering period.
Seven, finished potted flower management:
1. Standards for listing: Poinsettia plants are well-formed in pots, flowers, or sepals can be listed for sale. The quality requirements of commercial potted poinsettia are: dense and full of branches, about 35cm in plant height, uniform in height, and beautiful in blossom.
2. Storage and handling: In order to reduce the persuasive storage and transportation process, the blades and bracts are bent upwards and can be packaged. 3-4h before transportation, the plants are packaged in the hole separating paper or cellophane cover, and immediately after reaching the destination, the package is released to prevent the internal accumulation of ethylene from harm. It is best not to exceed 48 hours after packing.
3. Product potted flower maintenance: The finished product potted poinsettia after flowering should be placed in a bright environment, the temperature is maintained at 18-25°C, and below 10°C, it causes bluish-brown and fallen leaves. And maintain a high air humidity. Water should be appropriate, too much rot. Continuous lighting with incandescent bulbs can extend the life of colored sepals or flowers. STS solutions with a spray concentration of 0.3-0.8 mmoL can prevent ethylene-induced plant wilting.
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