Seedlings safe winter stay cold

First, the need to pay attention to the planting process

1.Ding root water pouring enough to soak: Immediately after planting, it should be permeated with water to ensure that the roots and the soil are tightly integrated, promote the development of the root system, and continuously irrigate 2-3 times of water. After irrigation, timely seal the tree tray with fine soil.

2. Pouring frozen water: When filling the root water, if the soil is dry before the soil is frozen, it should be poured once again. The time for freezing the water should not be too early, otherwise it will affect the cold resistance. Generally, it is advisable to fill with water during the “day-to-night and night-freezing” period so that after freezing, a permafrost layer will be formed around the roots of trees to maintain the temperature of the roots relatively stable and not to cause plant damage due to sudden changes in outside temperature.

3. Backfilling soil: The soil should be layered and compacted when planted, and the soil should be promptly filled when the soil is poured after irrigation. In winter construction, attention should be paid to smashing and smashing the permafrost and picking out large frozen blocks to prevent gaps in the permafrost causing the roots to receive wind.

4. The planting depth should be reasonable: Planting depth should generally be flush with the original soil mark, or slightly shallow but not deep, so as not to overdeep the seedling to suffocate and die, and to avoid accumulation of water.

5. Handle pruning wounds in time: Regardless of roots or branches, the wound healing agent/paste should be applied in time after pruning to promote wound healing and prevent the water from disintegrating causing the decay of dead branches and roots.

6. Properly arrange the progress of planting and seedlings: To achieve the seedlings on the go, with the planting, nursery stock approach to arrange reasonable, the day the seedlings arrived on the same day planting, no backlog of seedlings, not overnight.

Second, cold measures after planting

1. The trunk should be supported in time: the autumn and winter winds are large and large, so they must be supported in time after planting. Make sure the big tree is firm to prevent the wind from blowing the tree.

2. Tree cover: Northern tree species, especially seedlings planted in frozen soil, to avoid voids during the backfilling of frozen soil and to subject the soil ball to wind, the base needs to be covered with peat soil or leaves, straw or mulch after transplanting. Reduce surface evaporation, keep the soil moist, prevent the soil temperature from changing too much, and increase the survival rate of transplanted trees. When the soil begins to thaw in early spring, heat preservation materials are removed in time to facilitate soil thawing and improve ground temperature to promote root growth.

3. Neck and soil: After the completion of irrigation, the frozen water is combined and the earthen neck of the trees is cultivated with a diameter of 80-100 cm and a height of 40-50 cm to prevent freezing of the neck and roots. It also reduces the evaporation of soil moisture.

4. Cover the soil: Before the land is frozen, soften the branches and shrubs with low tree height, cover the soil with 40-50 cm and gently pat. This method can not only prevent freezing, but also maintain the humidity of branches and prevent tipping. Poor cold-resistant saplings and vines are used to prevent cold.

5. Wind barrier: The wind barrier material can be used for straw, plastic color strip cloth, etc., commonly used fir, bamboo poles, etc., fastened or nailed with wooden stakes tied to prevent strong wind down. The wind barrier should be set on the northwest side of the nursery. The height of the wind barrier should exceed the height of the tree. The effective distance for cold prevention is generally 10 times the height of the wind barrier. When the wind barrier is cold, it can also be combined with whitening, ground cover and other comprehensive measures. , improve the cold effect.

6. Trunk whitening: The use of lime plus lime sulfur to white the branches can reduce the damage to the sun's skin due to the large temperature difference between day and night, and can also kill some of the overwintering pests and diseases.

Matching ratio: 0.5 kg of lime sulfur crystals, 5 kg of quicklime, 0.5 kg of salt (helps lime penetrate the bark, keep moisture, prevent lime cracking and peeling), water 20 kg.

Preparation method: First, inject a fixed amount of water into the plastic bucket, and then put the lime sulfur crystal and quicklime and other auxiliary ingredients in order according to the ratio, and stir it enough to use.

Drying time and dosage: starting in mid-late November. Need to be painted white seedlings, from the roots of the tree to the main 1.2 cm brushing, even smear, breast diameter 10 cm seedlings painted about 0.4 kg per plant. The trees that need to be wrapped and kept cold are no longer painted.

7. Cultivation of crescent-shaped mounds: For inconvenience to planting bent-cold plants to prevent cold, you can bend the north side of the tree trunk before the soil is frozen and bend it to the south. A crescent shaped mound 30 to 40 cm high. Early spring can block the wind, reflect and accumulate heat to make the hole soil earlier freeze, the root can absorb water and grow earlier, so it can avoid the occurrence of freezing and drought.

8. Wrapped dry: For trees with poor cold resistance and some weak growth, especially newly planted seedlings, winter protection is needed. After wrapping the tree trunk with a non-woven fabric, pearl cotton, and felt cloth, a layer of plastic film is wrapped around, which can play a good role in preventing wind and freezing. Wrapped dry bases are usually piled with a little more soil to prevent the wrapping material from being blown by the wind. The commonly used method of wrapping a straw rope or a piece of grass on a tree trunk is not recommended because it has a general cold-proof effect and affects the detection and prevention of aphid pests. The conventional tree species that need to be cold-proofed in winter in the northern regions include: Qingtong, Fawtong, Albizia julibrissin, red maple, cherry, crape myrtle, magnolia, Guangyulan, cherry blossom, pomegranate, and Nanxun.

9. Anti-freezing and snow-fighting: During or after the heavy snowfall, the snow on the branches should be promptly knocked out to prevent the snow from being over-stressed for a long time, causing the branches to hang down, making it difficult to restore the original shape, or even breaking or splitting. In particular, evergreen trees with dense foliage should be organized in time to beat snow with bamboo rafts and snow-clad branches. For iced branches, you can't beat them, but you can't move them; if it is too heavy, use bamboo sticks to support the trunk.

10. Tree-based pile of snow: tree-based snow at the base of the tree snow can play a certain low temperature, avoid cold and strong winds invade, in the early spring can increase moisture and protect earthworm, reduce soil temperature, prevent buds from sprouting prematurely and fall down Hazards and other effects. In cold and dry areas, it is particularly necessary.

11. To understand weather conditions in advance, do a good job of prevention: listen to and watch the weather forecast frequently, and do preventive measures for frost damage, frost damage and wind damage in advance. Such as checking if the cold-proof material is loose, the support is firm, and the wind barrier is damaged. Http://

Yellow Waxy Corn Cut

Colored sticky corn is generally white, yellow, red, purple and black, among which white, yellow and purple corn are the basic colors. If the purple gene of the purple-white hybrid "beats" the white gene, it will naturally become purple, and vice versa, so if the two are tied, we will see white and purple corn. Purple can become red and black corn, or as we often say, "red is purple and black is purple".

Among these colorful corn, the most common Yellow Waxy Corn is the most nutritious because it is rich in carotene.


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